Thursday, August 14, 2008

Notes from Singapore


1. I have two words to describe Singapore: homogenised and sterilised. The Singapore we know is all about enviously efficient urban planning and housing development buildings (HDBs); unfortunately, it is also about cold social engineering and control. Even the urban artwork has the feel of being State-sanctioned, like a committee decides on what is acceptable at any given moment, down to the something@thisplace label for everything. I finally understand what dr.sbdink has been saying all along, that Singapore has a "Disneyfied" artificial feel to it. I never really got what he was driving at until I saw it myself. It's like using pasteurised milk to make cheese-- it can give you a good variety of taste and texture, but it has that unnatural and flat feel to it.

2. Which brings us to Geylang, the seedy underbelly of Singapore (or at least as seedy as Singapore can get). It is grimy and rowdy, the city-state's designated redlight district. It is the only place in Singapore where I frequently saw flies and cockroaches. It still felt relatively safe walking around Geylang past midnight though, the eminent threat being an overly aggressive "working girl". But of all the places in Singapore I visited, Geylang was the one where it did not feel homogenised and sterilised, the part of the city-state that seems to have been overlooked by the social planners. It has a genuine feel to it, like how Singapore was before HDBs, social engineering, and State-sanctioned cultural events. You feel it in the colourful (almost chaotic) architecture, the non-uniform businesses, and the relaxed pace of the people. Walk past the brothels and bars and you'll see mom-and-pop stores, mosques, and real communities. It's a good contrast to the Disneyfied city centre, where even daily life can feel touristy.

3. As a food heaven, Singapore definitely does not disappoint. I'll have a separate entry for food because it deserves special attention. What did disappoint me is my stomach-- seems it can only take too much chili and spice. My tastebuds are willing but my stomach is weak.

4. The Singapore transit system is the most efficient, convenient, and comfortable I have ever experienced. It was actually a pleasure to use public transportation and was very safe even late at night. It also helps that Singapore is a very walkable city and the streets are clean and dust-free. Goes to show that some things are really meant to be centrally planned.

5. Using my very scientific travel host-based rating scale, I'd say Singapore is mostly touristy along the lines of Sandra Brown and Janet Hsieh. If you're more like the Ian Wright or Anthony Bourdain traveller, then Geylang is definitely worth a visit. Food-wise, Singapore is a veritable destination for Maeve O'Meara and Andrew Zimmern and everyone in between.

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